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  “Shame about the waistcoats,” said one of us as we settled down with that menu and glasses of a delicious riesling from a well-chosen wine list, “and a bigger shame,” she went on, glancing at a grotty garden, “about that nasty, cheap garden furniture. But I love this room. It radiates warmth, and for once everyone’s talking at normal volume.” The Whispering Quotient, the imperial measurement of a dining room’s capacity to intimidate punters into embarrassed murmuring, was measured at an all-time low of 2.3 per cent.